Questions & Comments

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34 Responses to Questions & Comments

  1. Marie-Paule Larose says:

    J’ai planté 2 Camerisiers (haskap) ce printemps et j’aimerais des conseils sur la manière de les entretenir, s’il faut les tailler, etc.

    • EBH says:


      Le français n’est pas ma langue maternelle donc s’il vous plaît excuser mon mauvais usage. Voici quelques informations sur haskap croissantė.

      Au cours des trois premières années d’arrosage est extrêmement important à la constitution de cultures fruitières. L’irrigation est moins critique pour les arbustes établis. Buissons jeunes devraient être conservés herbe et mauvaises herbes. Il est préférable de former haskap comme un arbuste renouvelables comme l’amélanchier, les cerises acides ou naine bleuets en corymbe. Supprimer les centres de buissons quand ils obtiennent un mètre de haut. Quand les plantes deviennent à maturité dont ils auront besoin d’être éclaircis. Cela se ferait en supprimant quelques-uns des plus âgés, plus grosses branches à la base, en tenant à environ 20% des principales branches de chaque année. Ce serait renouveler la brousse afin que toutes les branches principales sont relativement jeunes. La fin du printemps et au début de l’hiver est le meilleur moment pour élaguer. N’enlevez jamais plus que 25% d’un buisson dans une année. Haskap ne drageonne pas que vous n’aurez pas à s’inquiéter à ce sujet.

  2. Do the flowers have a lovely honeysuckle scent? Or is this grown just for the fruit?


    • EBH says:


      I’ve not noticed any scent from the flowers but then again I wasn’t really checking for that. I’ll have to check next spring.

  3. Bethany says:

    I am considering purchasing a blue moon and a blue velvet Honeyberry but I first wanted to know if honeyberries would be invasive for zone 5? Thank you for your help.

  4. Bethany says:

    I have ordered a blue moon, blue velvet, wild honey, and honeysweet honeyberry and upon reading the planting instructions I have been getting conflicting information. From some sources it says to plant them in full sun and in others it says to plant in partial sun. Could you help clear up the confusion? I live in zone 5. Thank you so much for your help.

  5. Bethany says:

    Sorry, I meant in full sun or partial shade

  6. Nan says:


    Lots of great info here in your site, thanks for that! I have just gifted two different varieties of Blue Honeysuckle (in hopes of having some successful cross-polination) to a friend. They are now wondering if it\’s possible to pot them for the long term. Is this recommended, or will they have problems with the health of the plants and production of fruits? If it is possible to pot them what would be ideal size pots for them? Thanks for your help!


    • EBH says:

      Hi Nan,

      We just dug up and moved two 4 year old plants in order to replace them with a new variety of pollinator. The root systems were LARGE, reaching out at least 3 feet in radius from the main stem. Having said that, I’ve had cuttings of plants in small 6″ pots produce a few flowers. If your friend is going to pot them up, I’d say use the largest pot manageable and see what happens.

      Sorry that I can’t be more specific

  7. Jamie B. says:

    I believe I have a Blue Honeysuckle plant in my yard. Is there anywhere I can post pics/etc. where someone can help me ID it? Thanks!

  8. Taylor says:

    Hi, I was wondering if you could lead me in the right direction, as to where I can purchase cuttings for propagating? Thank you very much.

    • EBH says:

      Hi Taylor,

      I don’t think that you’ll find anyone selling cuttings unless they have a propagation licence. Honeyberry varieties such as Berry Blue™ and Blue Belle™, introduced by One Green World and sold by other nurseries, are trade marked. As I understand it, OGW did this as part of an agreement with the Russian breeders who provided them with the plants. A royalty fee on sales would go back to the Russian breeders. The haskap varieties such as Borealis, Tundra, and the Indigo series were developed by the University of Saskatchewan. In 2009, Haskap Canada attempted to trademark the term ‘Haskap’ but was turned down by the Canadian government. Nonetheless, it has propagation agreements in place with companies who produce their plants and receive a royalty on plants propagated. I have seen some sellers include on their invoice that the buyer agrees not to propagate the plants they purchase.

      There are a number of Haskap plant sellers in the United States but as far as I know only Honeyberry USA sells all of the University of Saskatchewan varieties.


  9. cheyne swick says:

    I love this blog and wanted to share my new blog dedicated to haskap’s and permaculture. I just rooted some haskap cuttings and will be sharing my stories with pictures. My blog can be seen at

  10. Elena says:

    I think to plant L. Kamtschatica in my litlle garden, but I have L. heckrotti there already. I wondering now, if they will cross pollinate each other? I like berries very much. I know that I need a proper pollinator too, but it is not that easy in Norway. The purchaser has no information about variety either. Thanks for any help.

  11. JodiH says:

    I planted 3 edible honeysuckles (Lonicera caerulea Atut, Duet, and Singelosca) about 5 or 6 years ago. They are alive but not exactly thriving, still very small. I probably didn’t give them enough water the first years, and as I clear other growth from around the stems I notice that there are a lot of fine roots visible either on or above the surface. I am guessing therefore that I also did not plant them deeply enough? Would it be better at this point to dig them up and replant a little lower, or just add a thick layer of compost on the surface?

    • EBH says:

      I would suggest digging them up and washing all of the soil from the roots to determine whether or not the roots are circling and whether they are twisted and constricting growth. Prune any problem roots. Dust the roots with Myke and replant slightly below where the roots are showing. Mulch with shredded tree bark. Haskap/honeysuckle do not like competition from grass or weeds because their roots are quite shallow. THe mulch will suppress competition, retain moisture and slowly decompose to improve the soil. Replenish mulch every few years.

  12. Amy says:

    Hello, (sorry for my english, I speakers french). I would like to make a honeysuckle (haskap) hedge on my land. I have 35 feet long to make the hedge. I do not find clear information of what space I need to distance each plant. Often I see 0.75 to one meter between each plan of haskaps but this information is for farmers. I am not à farmer but my plan it’s to be able to eat haskaps yes but also that the hedge will be beautiful on the ground without leaving any space between each. If I put the haskaps at a distance of 0.5 meters each, is it too close? Will they grow well? What do you suggest to me? I will plant mainly Aurora, but also a Blueberry that I thought I put in the center and 2 tundra that I thought put at the end of the hedge or in front of the house may be. At first I was thinking of mixing Tundra with the Aurora but I realized that they do not have the same port, Aurora and Blueberry are dressed and Tundra is falling (leaves looks AT the ground). Then that would be weird for a hedge Toundra and Aurora, right? But if I put 2 Tundra in the end of the hedge would that be nice? What advice do you have also please to fertilize haskaps the day of plantation? Thank you very much, also if you can tell me how fast haskaps growers are growing. The ones that I bought have 2 years old and make 12 to 18 inches. The hardiness zone where I live is 5a and the soil at a pH of about 7 or 6.5, non-edible honeysuckle grew before the same place without problem. Thank you in advance for your help! 🙂

    • EBH says:


      A mature bush is about .9 metres wide so planting at less than half that distance would have the bushes form a hedge. They will grow OK but you might not get as much fruit since there won’t be as much light because of the closeness of the plants. For good pollination, I would suggest a Berry Blue in the middle and 1 half way between the middle and each end for a total of three Berry Blue pollinators. I think that Aurora is a much sweeter and larger berry that Tundra so I would not include any Tundra unless you want genetic diversity.

      I would suggest a transplant fertilizer, something with a high potassium content such as Plant-Prod 10-52-10 Starter with micronutrients. More important is organic matter and inoculating the roots with mycorrhizal fungi such as the Myke Tree and Shrub product.

      Once established, haskap grows quickly. This year, I have two year old cuttings that have 30 centimetres of new growth.

      Haskap grows in a wide range of soil pH so you shouldn’t have a problem.

      This document, Growing Haskap in Canada, is very helpful.

      • Amy says:

        Thanks a lot for your help EBH! Finally, I find that my BerryBlue askap seems more different than my others askap, the stems have a different colloration and the foliage is less provided so it looks less healthy, I do not know if it’s normal. So I decided to buy Honeybee for the pollinisation, they look very healthy 🙂 But they have 3 years old and my Aurora, Tundra and Berryblue have 2 years old. I found a single Aurora of 3 years old. Is it okay to put different age haskaps together for the hedge? They will have reached the same size when they are all 5 years old and older that’s right?

        Strangely I ended up with a problem of aphids but only with my two Tundra haskap. Brown ants carry black aphids on them. They are not interested in other kinds of haskap. I hesitate to keep Tundra because of this problem. On the other haskap I observed only 2 tiny black caterpillars with a white band on the side, they were hidden in a thin cocoon, but that’s not look a probleme. Are black aphids a common problem for Tundra? And are we treating the hakap to remove them as with other plants? (soap spray) I think to either isolate them in my back yard so that the aphids do not risk going on my other haskaps. until now I have removed the aphids manually.

        So I think I will put 3 Honeybee of 3 years in the hedge placed as you advised me for pollination. The berryblue I think to plant it at first, stuck on the house, so it will be less visible 😉 but clearly visible for the bumblebees in the nest just above in the roof cornice.

  13. EBH says:

    BerryBlue is one of the early Russian varieties. All the others you mention are from the University of Saskatchewan breeding programme so they will have different genetic characteristics.

    In a few years, you probably won’t see any difference in size unless the growing conditions are different.

    I’ve never seen aphids on haskap but soap spray will get rid of them.

    Wow, bumble bees in the roof cornice. As far as I know, they’re ground nesters but, if they are bumble bees and not wasps, you should be happy. They are fantastic pollinators for haskap.


  14. Amy says:

    Hello, no I did not see cedar waxwings, it was mostly American Robins and Common Starling. They did not like the presence of the plastic nets and quickly abandoned my land. Only a very small bird managed to sneak underneath, it looked like a Savannah Sparrow. When he realized he could not go out he was screaming and panicked as if he was asking for help from his big family in the maple tree nearby. I took him out and they never came back. After a great first harvest of delicious haskaps berries, my Aurora, especially the youngest plants started to be in bad shape with brown leaves. Their growth has also stopped. I thought they was suffering because there is a lot of sun this summer, humidity and it’s not raining much.. Although we water the soil I imagine that the rain is always better with nitrogen etc. Then the problem was spread on the largest Aurora and then the Honeybee and white appeared on the leaves plants, powdery mildew I think . I would like your opinion please and the best method of treatment. Black soap, garlic, or suffers? They worry me .. I sent you photos by email. My Tundra on the back ground are doing very well. No insect attack or disease. After I planted them some time ago, all the aphids disappeared. Can be an insect friend who did the the work 😉 Thanks again for your help!

    • EBH says:

      Often in later summer, the leaves start to look bad. In the drought summer of 2012, many of our bushes lost most to all of their leaves. They all survived.

      Most of the growth is in the spring. After they fruit, the plants’ growth rate completely slows down.

      The powdery mildew is not a problem. When it’s humid, you often see it on plants. You can get rid of it with milk – Squelching Powdery Mildew with Milk

  15. Mrs D J Pratt says:

    Amy & EBH – thank you so much for your conversation over the months, I have been scrolling around for information on Honeyberry and you have answered so many questions without even needing to ask!

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